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Welcome! ( login | register ) » MercuryBoard » The Violin Man » Luthier (violin making) Questions » bridge fitting

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bridge fitting
orca
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I have recently quit my job as a university prof and now live on a small island off the top of Scotland. I now have a lot more time for playing and enjoying my string instruments (violin and cello). I respect the skills of luthiers and have recently had an old violin and cello put back to working order by a wonderful luthier in Glasgow. But I would really love to be able to do some work on my intruments myself, for three reasons. Firstly, I live in a place where luthiers are not just round the corner. Secondly, I would like to be able to do a few things for myself, even if not very professionally, in order to add to my understanding of how instruments work and to deepen my enjoyment of the beauty of these works of art. Thirdly, well I don't have a third reason except that I just want to...

So, without diminishing the expertise of trained and skilled luthiers, I would like to do a couple of things right now. One of my violns has a gap between the rib and the top table near the neck joint. How do I go about getting glue into that narrow gap without plastering the ribs in order to close it? My next question maybe requires a tutorial from an expert. I want to be able to fit a new bridge to one of my violins. I know this is complex work, but I want to have a go for the reasons given above. Can someone outline the series of steps involved and how they proceed to shape feet, thin the bridge and shape the top? I know I won't make as good a job of this as a professional luthier, but I just want to try.

Posted Feb 26, 2010, 8:51 pm
Gordon Burns
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Hi Prof,

First a word on the glue - use nothing but natural animal glue (hide glue) at the consistancy of 'single cream' and at around 70 degrees C (do not go above 80 or it will quickly deteriorate and be no good). Using an old knife (bone-handle type) with a very thin blade, coat the blade and carefully inset it into the gap. When doing this, work with the fiddle belly side down to prevent any surplus glue running down the inside of the ribs.

Work quickly (the glue starts to chill as soon as it's removed from heat). Carefully close the seam with closing clamps (don't overtighten) and immediately take off excess glue on the outside using a stiff artists' paint brush dipped into boiling water. When all dissolved, mop dry with kitchen roll.

Leave for at least 12 hours before removing the clamp(s).

As far as bridge fitting is concerned, there are whole books dedicated to this fine art and even a short descrption would take a day to write! Try Amazon - better still, chat up a luthier who may (or may not) be willing to demonstrate it hands-on.

If you take a look at Graham's Store, under professional luthier tools, you can order a couple of closing clamps and an old butter-knife for the repair. Whilst there, a bridge shaping block is essential and if you want to make it a really nice job, a parchment E string guard pad will do it (providing your bridge is well cut, that is).

Best of luck,
.........................
http://www.theluthier.co.uk/gordon.jpg

Posted Mar 2, 2010, 1:48 am
Mat Roop
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If you are going to get into bridges... here is the authoritative site...
http://violinbridges.co.uk/index.php?bg=yes
and here are 2 additional fora that have lots of searchable info on bridge fitting.. just remember to sift the wheat from the chaff!
http://www.violins.ca/forums/
http://www.maestronet.com/forum/index.php?showforum=4
Cheers! :smile:...  Mat

Posted Mar 7, 2010, 3:04 pm
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